Nestled in the Mahalangur region of the Himalayas, near the Nepal-China border, just 8 kilometers west of Mt. Everest, Mt. Pumori stands as a promising challenge for aspiring Himalayan alpinists. Revered as ‘the mountain daughter’ by George Mallory, the name originates from the Sherpa language, where ‘pumo’ signifies ‘young girl,’ and ‘Ri’ denotes ‘mountain.’ Mt. Pumori serves as an ideal choice for those preparing to conquer 8000ers, demanding a high level of physical endurance and mountaineering expertise. The preferred route for the Pumori expedition is the South East route, albeit with the constant risk of avalanches during the ascent.
The inaugural successful ascent of this majestic peak occurred in 1962 by Gerhard Lesner, part of a German-Swiss expedition team. Subsequent summits followed, with the first winter ascent achieved in 2017 by Ali Sadpara from Pakistan.
Embarking on the Pumori expedition commences with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by trekking through charming villages in Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Lobuche, and Gorakshep. This trek provides an immersive experience into the rural lifestyle of Sherpas, traversing picturesque villages, terraced farmlands, and dense forests of Rhododendron and Pine, gradually ascending toward barren, rocky landscapes. The journey culminates at the base camp, where preparations for the climb unfold.
Ascending Mt. Pumori involves navigating snow-covered ridges and traversing numerous glaciers. Climbers encounter slopes with gradients of 40-60 degrees, demanding technical mountaineering expertise. Given these challenges, multiple camps are established before the final summit push, with the base camp at 5300m, Camp I at 5650m, Camp II at 6200m, and Camp III at 6500m. Our highly experienced Sherpas ensure the setup of fixed ropes and routes, facilitating a secure ascent and descent. Accommodations and meals at each camp are of the highest quality, ensuring a rewarding and memorable journey.
The summit of Pumori offers a breathtaking panoramic view of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt. Makalu, and other snow-capped peaks. A pre-dawn start may reward climbers with the surreal experience of witnessing the golden sunrise illuminating the pristine snow, creating an otherworldly scene.
The optimal seasons for the Mt. Pumori expedition are Spring (March-June) and Autumn (August-November).
Plan your expedition to Mt. Pumori with Taktok Brothers and explore the necessary gear for this extraordinary adventure.
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), you'll complete necessary immigration procedures to acquire the Nepal Entry Visa at the Immigration counter. Our representative will warmly welcome you at Arrivals and facilitate your transfer to the designated hotel. Take your time to freshen up and relax after your journey.
The second day is reserved for official processes such as documentation, permit acquisition, and other expedition-related formalities. Following this, you'll have time to explore the city's attractions. The subsequent day marks the beginning of expedition preparations. Packing, essential shopping, thorough checks of necessary items (particularly medications and essentials), comprehensive briefings on all aspects of the expedition, gear and equipment discussions, trip duration, base camp facilities, and introductions among fellow climbers and team members will be conducted.
An early morning flight from Kathmandu takes us to Lukla Airport, offering spectacular views of valleys and mountains throughout. The trek commences towards Phakding after obtaining the necessary permits, passing through varied terrain—dirt paths, stony trails, and intermittent rocky sections. Enjoy the diverse landscapes, lush greenery, flora, and fauna along the trail, crossing several suspension bridges alongside the Dudh Koshi river. Relax upon reaching Phakding.
The trek to Namche Bazaar includes traversing dense pine, juniper, and Rhododendron forests within Sagarmatha National Park. Uphill climbs and sightings of river ravines characterize the journey. Upon reaching Namche, rest at the hotel, followed by exploration of the village, local Sherpa culture experiences, and visits to the Everest Photo Gallery and Sherpa Museum.
From Namche, the journey progresses towards Tengboche Monastery, offering striking views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtega. Participate in prayer ceremonies and relax for the day.
Departing from Tengboche, the trail leads to Dingboche for acclimatization. Passing through forests of Rhododendrons and crossing bridges, the trek eventually reaches Dingboche in the Imja Tse valley. A day here is dedicated to short hikes, providing impressive mountain vistas and acclimatization.
The journey to Lobuche involves an uphill climb behind Periche, traversing Khumbu Glacier's terminal moraine and passing memorials honoring deceased climbers. Lobuche, a Sherpa settlement and the final village with lodges on the Everest trail, is reached after nearly 6-7 hours of trekking.
The trek continues towards Mt. Pumori, focusing on a gradual ascent to avoid altitude-related issues. Arriving at the base camp, Sherpa Guides set up tents for accommodation, dining, and showers, serving high-nutrition mountain food.
The trek continues towards Mt. Pumori, focusing on a gradual ascent to avoid altitude-related issues. Arriving at the base camp, Sherpa Guides set up tents for accommodation, dining, and showers, serving high-nutrition mountain food.
Post base camp cleanup, the trek returns to Pheriche, overnighting at a lodge.
From Pheriche, the trek reverts to Namche, the prominent Sherpa capital of the Khumbu region.
The trail back to Lukla retraces steps through forests, suspension bridges, and picturesque settlements.
Flying back to Kathmandu from Lukla offers aerial vistas of mountains and villages. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel for relaxation. An evening farewell dinner at a Nepali Restaurant with cultural performances awaits.
With gratitude and fond wishes, the journey concludes with farewells for your return flight home. A representative will accompany you to the airport three hours before your scheduled departure. We anticipate your return for future adventures in the coming seasons.
Preparation and Training: Climbers are advised to thoroughly prepare their bodies and minds to adapt to remoteness, high altitude, and separation from families. Pack lightly with fewer valuable belongings. Bring cotton clothes for your stay in Kathmandu and warm attire for the Himalayas. Always carry a copy of your passport and photos.
Weather Dependency in Everest Region: Trekking and mountain climbing in the Everest Region are subject to weather conditions. While we plan trips at optimal times, extreme scenarios may cause delays or cancellations of domestic flights to Lukla. In such cases, any additional expenses beyond the specified itinerary days are the client’s responsibility. Taktok Brothers will arrange accommodation for porters and guides. If you prefer alternative arrangements, such as a helicopter flight to avoid delays, we can organize it at a nominal extra charge.
Missed International Flights: Taktok Brothers is not liable for compensating losses due to missed international flights. However, we are committed to helping minimize any inconvenience. To avoid missing flights, consider keeping flexible time frames before and after the trip.
Itinerary Adjustments: Traveling in remote areas with challenging conditions may require itinerary adjustments. Trail distortions can occur, necessitating flexibility. Rest assured, Taktok Brothers prioritizes maintaining the highest quality of service under all circumstances.
Expedition costs are influenced by factors such as:
-Group size
-Royalty and permit costs in different seasons
-Category of hotel accommodation
-Numbers of Sherpas allocated and equipment
-Type of arrangement and package customization