Nuptse (7,861 m), translating to “the West Peak” in Tibetan, stands proudly in the westernmost part of the Lobuche-Nuptse massif, within the Khumbu region. Merely 2 km west-southwest from the iconic Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse, Nuptse is a key component of the ‘Triple Crown’ for mountaineers.
The imposing height and close proximity to Everest and Lhotse offer a striking view of Nuptse, particularly from the South or Westside. Despite its impressive elevation of 7861m, it doesn’t secure a spot in the list of highest mountains due to its low prominence, measuring only 319 m. Nevertheless, the seven significant peaks along its extensive east-west ridge demand attention.
The initial ascent of Nuptse occurred in 1961, led by Joe Walmsley and accomplished by Dennis Davis and Tashi Sherpa, members of the British Expedition team. The north-ridge route, now famously known as the Scott Route, was the chosen path.
Nuptse presents a challenging and technical climb with loose snow, hollow sections, hanging snow cornices, and steep slopes, making it perilous. The ascent history saw an increase in frequency between the 1990s and 2000s, with new routes discovered on the South, West, and North Faces.
Embarking on an Expedition to Nuptse demands a high level of physical fitness and mountaineering skills. Acclimatization and careful navigation are crucial for a successful summit.
Upon reaching the base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, our Sherpa Team will establish a route with ropes and ladders leading to Camp 1 and Camp 2. This setup facilitates ladder training and gear familiarization before ascending to Camp 1 at 5900 m. Subsequent rotations to Camp 1 and Camp 2 will be conducted, with a longer stay at Camp 2 for acclimatization before advancing to Camp 3 at 6800 m.
Touching Camp 3, we return to Base Camp and undergo another rotation, sleeping at Camp 3. Returning to Base Camp, we await a suitable weather window for the Summit Bid. In favorable conditions, we ascend to Camp 2 for a couple of nights, followed by a night at Camp 3. The subsequent day marks the Summit Day of Nuptse at 7861 m. After the summit, we descend to Camp 2, spend a night, and then return to the base camp.
Best Season for Nuptse Expedition
The optimal seasons for an Expedition to Nuptse are between March to May and September to December. During these periods, the winds are calmer, days are sunny, temperatures are mild, and the trail is adorned with green dense forests, flowing rivers, and the captivating sounds of birds and animals, providing uninterrupted views of the grand massifs along the trail.
Upon arrival at TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport), our representatives will greet and accompany you to the hotel where you can unwind. Following the check-in, freshen up, and relax. Take the opportunity to explore Thamel's streets for refreshments.
The second day is dedicated to official formalities, document procurement, permit acquisition, and trip preparation. It's a time to pack essentials, shop for necessities, and participate in briefings about the trek duration, accommodation, and facilities at the base camp and along the trek. Get to know your fellow trekkers and team members during this session.
Early morning, embark on a thrilling flight to Lukla Airport. Enjoy the scenic views as we trek from Lukla to Phakding, a picturesque journey through diverse terrains and suspension bridges alongside the Dudh Koshi river. Relax in Phakding after obtaining necessary permits for the region.
Traverse from Phakding to Namche Bazaar, experiencing dense forests, animal sightings in the Sagarmatha National Park, and uphill climbs. Arrive at Namche and explore the village to soak in the local Sherpa culture.
Begin the trail towards the Khumjung valley, appreciating beautiful landscapes and reaching the Tengboche Monastery, known for its scenic views of mountains like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.
Proceed towards Dingboche, passing through forests, rivers, and Lower Pangboche, relishing breathtaking views of Ama Dablam and reaching Dingboche after a 5-6 hour walk.
Journey to Lobuche includes climbing to the ridge behind Periche, encountering stone monuments, and reaching Lobuche, offering captivating views of peaks like Khumbutse and Lingtren.
Head to Nuptse Base Camp via Gorakshep, walking along the Khumbu glacier's moraine, where our Sherpa team will set up camps in preparation for climbing.
The climbing phase includes rotations between camps, training, acclimatization, and the final ascent to Nuptse's summit, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
Return to Lobuche from Nuptse Base Camp, descending through the Khumbu Glacier and reaching Lobuche for overnight stay.
Start the day by trekking from Lobuche towards Pangboche, a journey that involves a downhill trail through picturesque landscapes and the village of Pangboche. Along the way, pass by the memorial erected in honor of those who lost their lives in the Himalayas. Spend the night at a cozy teahouse in Pangboche.
Today's trek involves a descent until Deboche followed by an uphill climb towards Tengboche, and then a descent to Phungi Tenga. Ascend again to Kyangjuma and enjoy a smooth trail leading to Namche Bazaar, offering various beautiful landscapes along the way.
Conclude the trek by walking from Namche Bazaar to Lukla, passing through forests, suspension bridges, and villages like Monjo.
Fly back to Kathmandu, where you can relax, sightsee, shop, and indulge in various activities. Enjoy the farewell dinner in the evening.
As the trip concludes, bid farewell to the team and depart from TIA. Departure arrangements will be made three hours before your scheduled flight.
Weather Dependency: Trekking and mountain climbing in the Everest Region are subject to weather conditions. While we plan trips at optimal times, domestic flights to Lukla may face delays or cancellations. In such cases, any expenses for additional days beyond the total in the itinerary will be the client’s responsibility. Taktok Brothers will arrange accommodation for porters and guides during these extended periods. If desired, alternative arrangements, such as helicopter flights to avoid delays, can be organized for a nominal extra charge.
Missed International Flights: Taktok Brothers is not liable for compensating losses due to missed international flights. However, we are committed to assisting in minimizing any inconvenience. To avoid missing flights, consider flexible time frames before and after the trip.
Itinerary Adjustments: Traveling in remote areas with challenging conditions may necessitate itinerary adjustments. Trail distortions can occur, requiring flexibility. Rest assured, Taktok Brothers prioritizes maintaining the highest quality of service under all circumstances.
Cost of Expedition: Expedition costs are influenced by factors such as group size, royalty and permit costs in different seasons, hotel accommodation category, Sherpa allocation, equipment, and package customization. We tailor costs based on these considerations. Contact Taktok Brothers to discuss details and receive information on your selected package.