Nestled in the heart of the Khumbu region, Baruntse stands tall at an impressive altitude of 7,162m. Despite its similar altitudes to neighboring peaks, Baruntse is considered a comparatively easier ascent. Situated in the western part of the Barun Glacier Valley, the peak is flanked by the Hunku Glacier to the south and the Imja Glacier to the northwest. Crowned by four peaks, Baruntse offers multiple routes to the summit, with the South route being the most popular. However, the Southeast ridge presents a more challenging option, featuring a straightforward climb through sections of a steep ice cliff, reaching up to 50 degrees, and posing the risk of avalanches.
First conquered on May 30, 1954, by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow from the expedition team led by Sir Edmund Hillary, Baruntse serves as an ideal choice for those seeking to transition from 6000m to 7000m peaks. With a higher success rate than other peaks above 7000m, Mt. Baruntse provides a spectacular opportunity to prepare for an 8000m peak.
The Mt. Baruntse Expedition follows two significant trekking routes. The first route starts from Lukla, passing through Zwatra La Pass to Mera La Pass, then proceeding to Hunku Glacier up to the Base Camp. The second route traverses the Makalu Trail across the West Barun Glacier. Whichever route you choose, you’ll be captivated by the pristine beauty and tranquility of the region. Journeying through ancient Sherpa settlements, grassy meadows, and high passes that offer majestic views of the Khumbu region’s towering peaks.
This expedition demands perfect physical fitness and sufficient experience in high-altitude trekking. Proper acclimatization is crucial for making the expedition both memorable and successful.
The best time for the Baruntse Expedition is during Spring and Summer when the weather is moderate, skies are clear, days are longer, and there is less risk of extreme snowfall, storms, and winds. However, the competent team at Taktok Brothers can organize expeditions to Baruntse even in Autumn and Winter.
Based on the information you provide, our team will be at the airport upon your expected arrival. Once you finish the necessary visa procedures, we'll greet you and escort you to a comfortable hotel for relaxation. You might consider exploring Thamel's streets in the evening. The following day, we'll assist in obtaining permits for the Mera Peak climb and other essential paperwork. Our guide will accompany you for shopping in the city. Later in the evening, there will be a comprehensive briefing, allowing us to pack and prepare thoroughly for the upcoming trek and peak ascent.
Following an early morning breakfast at the hotel, we embark on a brief and picturesque flight to Lukla, home to one of the highest altitude airports. Upon landing, we'll meet our local team members and porters who will assist in carrying our belongings towards Chutenga. Our trail heads southeast of Lukla, leading us through the Makalu Barun Conservation Area where we'll acquire entry permits for a nominal fee. Traversing paths alongside small rivers and passing by monasteries, we'll finally arrive at the village of Chutenga.
Following Chutenga, our journey progresses toward the Zwatra La Pass, positioned at an altitude of 4610 meters. Post a steep ascent, the trail descends toward Thuli Kharka. Trekking across barren terrain, we gradually descend the hills, eventually arriving at our destination after a steady 6-7 hour walk to Thuli Kharka.
Following a delightful breakfast at the lodge in Thuli Kharka, our journey proceeds toward Kothe. The trail leads through the Hinku Valley, beginning with a gradual descent offering captivating mountain vistas. Trekking amidst dense green forests, we navigate undulating hills. Upon entering the Hinku valley, the awe-inspiring sight of Mera Peak, our ultimate destination, unfolds. Subsequently, we descend sharply to the Hinku River and ascend a gently sloping hill to reach our evening halt.
Following a night's rest in Kothe, our journey continues towards the next destination on the Mera Peak ascent. We trek along the Hinku River's bank, proceeding toward Gondishung, where we pause for a lunch break. Gondishung is renowned for its 200-year-old monastery, Lungsumgba Gompa, and other captivating cultural relics. It's believed that offering prayers at this Gompa brings success in the Mera Peak climb. Continuing our trek, we arrive at Thangnak, a grazing ground frequently used in the summer for yaks. We settle in at a teahouse to spend the night.
Moving forward from Thangnak, the journey continues to Khare. This part of the trail is notably challenging, involving a demanding trek across steep moraine ridges from Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, positioned facing the Charpate Himal, which translates to the "four-sided hill". The trail further ascends with a 3-4 hour steep climb, taking us above the tree line to reach Khare. As this region exhibits a higher altitude, we will spend an extra day here for proper acclimatization before proceeding.
Leaving Khare behind, the path presents two options leading to Baruntse and Mera Peak. Should you opt for the inclusion of Mera Peak in this expedition, we'll proceed toward Mera Base Camp. Alternatively, we continue our trek towards Khamedingma. Our pace will be steady, prioritizing gradual acclimatization and minimizing risks along the way. Upon reaching our destination, we will establish our campsite and spend the night resting.
Following our rest at Khamedingma, our next destination is Seto Pokhari, translating to the White Lake. This serene and striking high-altitude lake offers a captivating sight, adorned by its pristine white appearance. Our path will be adorned by the natural beauty of this region as we make our way forward.
Our ascent commences on the 12th day with initial prayers at the base camp, followed by fundamental training sessions and familiarization with our climbing equipment. Our team will arrange the ropes and explore diverse climbing routes while we execute rotations, partaking in nourishing meals prepared by our kitchen crew. These rotations involve ascending to higher camps and then descending to lower camps for overnight rests, ensuring proper acclimatization. However, our expedition’s progression is contingent upon favorable weather conditions for the summit attempt. Camp 1 will be stationed at an elevation of 6100 meters on the South-East ridge of the peak. Negotiating slopes ascending up to 45 degrees mandates the installation of fixed ropes leading to the West Col via the Upper Barun Glacier, traversing a steep 50-degree snowy slope. At 6400 meters, Camp 2 will be established within the Upper Barun Glacier. Access to this camp requires ascending an uphill glacial slope from Camp 1 while adhering to the fixed line due to the presence of numerous crevasses and the potential threat of avalanches. Subsequently, from Camp 2, our climb involves navigating an ice wall with a steepness of up to 75 degrees, leading to a small Col at 6500 meters. Once at the Col, we proceed along the ridge toward the summit of Baruntse. The pinnacle offers breathtaking panoramic vistas, including views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt. Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Mera Peak, Nuptse, and others. Following our summit achievement, we prepare for the descent back to the lower camps.
Today marks the departure from Baruntse Base Camp. Our responsibilities involve dismantling the base camp infrastructure, managing waste disposal, and expressing gratitude to our support team by providing tips. Following these tasks, we will descend to Khamedingma, where we will spend the night to rest and recuperate.
Beginning our day with a hearty breakfast at Khamedingma, we will initiate our descent towards Thangnak.
Embarking on our trek towards Chatrabu, we traverse through rough and arid landscapes with minimal settlements and scarce vegetation. Upon arrival, we will settle in at Chatrabu for an overnight rest.
Beginning the descent from Chatrabu, we journey back towards Lukla and settle into a comfortable hotel for rest.
We bid adieu to the Khumbu region and embark on our flight back to the capital city. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you'll have the freedom to explore the city, indulge in souvenir shopping, and wander around Thamel. Additionally, take the opportunity to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Sites or simply relax. On the 33rd day, we'll gather for a farewell dinner at an authentic Nepali restaurant.
The culmination of our incredible 33-day journey and collaboration has arrived. Today marks the moment to bid farewell until our paths cross again. Our team will ensure you're dropped off at the airport three hours before your scheduled departure.
Weather Dependency: Trekking and mountain expeditions in the Himalayas are weather-dependent. While we plan trips at the most favorable times, extreme scenarios may lead to delays or cancellations of domestic flights to Lukla. In such cases, any expenses for additional days beyond the total in the itinerary will be the client’s responsibility. Taktok Brothers will arrange accommodation for porters and guides. Alternative arrangements, such as a helicopter flight to avoid delays, can be organized at a nominal extra charge.
Missed International Flights: Taktok Brothers is not liable for compensating losses due to missed international flights. However, we are committed to assisting in minimizing any inconvenience. To avoid missing flights, consider flexible time frames before and after the trip.
Itinerary Adjustments: Traveling in remote areas with challenging conditions may necessitate itinerary adjustments. Trail distortions can occur, requiring flexibility. Rest assured, Taktok Brothers prioritizes maintaining the highest quality of service under all circumstances.
Expedition costs vary based on the following factors:
-Group size
-Royalty and permit costs in different seasons
-Category of hotel accommodation
-Numbers of Sherpas allocated and equipment
-Type of arrangement and package customization
Taktok Brothers made my trek in Nepal an unforgettable experience. The entire trip, from planning to execution, was seamless. The team’s deep understanding of the local culture added a unique layer to the adventure. If you want an authentic trekking experience, Taktok Brothers are the ones to go with!
My trek with Taktok Brothers was a dream come true. The staff’s passion for the mountains and their commitment to responsible tourism shone through at every step. I’ll cherish the memories of this journey, and I’m already planning my next adventure with them.
I can’t say enough good things about Taktok Brothers! Their attention to safety and the overall well-being of their clients is commendable. The trek was challenging yet rewarding, and I always felt in good hands. If you’re looking for a trekking company in Nepal, these guys are the real deal.
Taktok Brothers provided a well-organized and memorable trekking adventure in Nepal. Their guides are not only experts in the trails but also wonderful companions. We trekked through remote villages and breathtaking scenery, and I couldn’t have asked for a better experience. This company comes highly recommended!
I had an incredible trekking experience with Taktok Brothers! From the moment I arrived in Nepal, their team took care of every detail. Our guide was knowledgeable, friendly, and made the trek enjoyable. The stunning landscapes and cultural experiences made this trip unforgettable. I highly recommend them for your next adventure!
I am aware that even though being a mere entity in this cosmic drama, I have braved plethora of hardships and have languished at the other side of the rainbows.
